Becca Lynn (00:00):
Can I use expired makeup? How can I prevent razor burn? What beauty products are really worth the splurge? All that and more on this episode of The Healthiest You. I have some good beauty habits. I probably have some not-so-good beauty habits, maybe sleeping in makeup, maybe expired makeup. Some things I shouldn’t have done with the razor. We’re going to focus on women’s health and wellness on The Healthiest You podcast. Whether you’re on your way to work or you’re enjoying a cup of coffee, take this time to focus on your health. Here to talk about beauty habits and things to ditch and switch is Emily Doster, esthetic nurse with LVPG Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Emily, welcome to the show and thank you so much for joining us today.
Emily Doster, RN (00:43):
Thanks for having me.
Becca Lynn (00:44):
Are you excited?
Emily Doster, RN (00:45):
I am.
Becca Lynn (00:45):
Are you going to scold me about some of my beauty habits?
Emily Doster, RN (00:48):
Maybe.
Becca Lynn (00:50):
That’s absolutely fair. And I could probably use a little scolding for some of those things. Now, right off the bat, for a lot of us, makeup is a huge part of our morning routine. I typically do not leave the house unless I have put some form of makeup on. I love it. I don’t love how expensive it is, especially for some of the more, I guess you could say, quality products. But when it comes to expired makeup, how long is too long?
Emily Doster, RN (01:16):
I think it’s all kind of relative, depending on what it is, what formula it is, where you’re using it. Are you using it on your eyes? Are you using it on your mouth? Maybe those products we should be replacing a little bit more often. Is it a wand you’re pulling out of a tube and applying directly onto your face? Is it an airless pump? All of those kind of come into play. I’ve had products for probably longer than I should as well. And some simple sanitary techniques like spritzing an eye-shadow palette with alcohol or washing your applicators more might elongate the use of the product.
Becca Lynn (02:01):
But?
Emily Doster, RN (02:01):
But if the formula looks different than it used to …
Becca Lynn (02:06):
Oh, if you can notice a change in the consistency.
Emily Doster, RN (02:09):
Right. If it’s separated, if it’s no longer the color you remember it, if there’s some kind of maybe film on the top of it, maybe it’s time …
Becca Lynn (02:20):
Or a funky smell.
Emily Doster, RN (02:20):
Yeah, absolutely.
Becca Lynn (02:21):
Then it’s time.
Emily Doster, RN (02:21):
Smell, definitely. Time to toss it.
Becca Lynn (02:24):
Good to know. So you’re saying that the health and beauty products that I have maybe from high school are, I should let them go.
Emily Doster, RN (02:30):
Maybe. Maybe time to update.
Becca Lynn (02:32):
I think you might be right. Now, how often should I be replacing my go-to makeup items?
Emily Doster, RN (02:38):
I would say, again, eye products like mascara, definitely every couple months. Read the label, read the manufacturer suggestion, but keep in mind, too, they do want to sell you stuff.
Becca Lynn (02:50):
Good point.
Emily Doster, RN (02:53):
If it looks OK, smells OK, maybe you didn’t even open the package yet. Use your judgment when you’re using things.
Becca Lynn (03:02):
OK. And save some money too.
Emily Doster, RN (03:03):
Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (03:04):
All right. We are going to talk the good, the bad, the ugly, and probably one of the ugliest habits that I have is not cleaning my brushes. How often should we be cleaning our brushes, and is there such thing as too much cleaning of the brushes?
Emily Doster, RN (03:20):
If you’re investing in your brushes with natural bristles, you do want to maybe be careful about how much you’re washing them. Almost like you’re washing your own hair. You only want to do it when you kind of need to. If you’re the only one using your brushes, do you have to clean them every single time you’re using them? No.
Becca Lynn (03:42):
Oh, good to know. OK.
Emily Doster, RN (03:43):
Yeah. Maybe once every couple weeks, once a month. Especially if it’s powder formulations. Powder doesn’t tend to harbor bacteria as much as cream formulations or a beauty blender that you’re dampening when you are using it. I tend to wash mine, I’d say probably about once a month. But if I’m using a sponge, maybe I’ll wash that once a week.
Becca Lynn (04:07):
Good to know. What about when my teenager comes in and starts using my brushes and I don’t know about that.
Emily Doster, RN (04:12):
That’s a whole another show.
Becca Lynn (04:14):
We will book that for a later Healthiest You podcast. Now, does our skin need time to breathe? And I remember reading this back long ago when I was younger, maybe a day of the week where you don’t put too much makeup on or you don’t wear any at all. Does our skin need that?
Emily Doster, RN (04:32):
I think it’s more about prepping your skin and then also taking the makeup off when you’re done wearing it. So not necessarily that your skin needs a break from putting it on, unless you’re getting irritated from it, unless your products are making you break out or they seem like they’re clogging your pores. Products I see like that now are a lot of primers. Things that are …
Becca Lynn (04:59):
Oh, primers are huge right now.
Emily Doster, RN (05:00):
Yeah. And we didn’t really grow up with primers. They’re a new thing and everybody wants poreless skin that looks like it has a filter.
Becca Lynn (05:07):
Airbrush.
Emily Doster, RN (05:08):
Yeah. So, these products really are meant to kind of fill in texture. So, those products maybe you’d want to take a break from, save those from those days where you need long wear. But if you’re just popping out, maybe don’t use those products that are meant …
Becca Lynn (05:29):
As often.
Emily Doster, RN (05:29):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (05:29):
Use them as needed. If you have, like you said, a long day ahead of you or a special event.
Emily Doster, RN (05:36):
Yep. Exactly.
Becca Lynn (05:36):
But if you’re just running out to get the groceries, you don’t need to do the full thing.
Emily Doster, RN (05:37):
Yes. Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (05:38):
Good to know.
Emily Doster, RN (05:38):
And if that’s what you want and that’s what you like and that’s what you want to present to the world, go for it. But just make sure that you’re taking the proper steps to take everything off. So, that is kind of giving your skin a break.
Becca Lynn (05:50):
OK. That leads me into taking it off and I have a very difficult time pronouncing this word, micellar. Did I say it right?
Emily Doster, RN (05:58):
Yep. Micellar, micellar.
Becca Lynn (06:00):
Micellar water. Is that a great makeup remover? Is it a great cleanser? Can I do that instead of washing my face?
Emily Doster, RN (06:08):
So, whenever you have makeup or even sunscreen on, you do want to do it in two steps. You want to take all that off first and then you want to actually wash your face. Micellar water is a great ingredient. It’s very multipurpose. Essentially, micellar water is just water and an ingredient called glycerin. And glycerin is a moisturizing agent. It’s usually the base of most moisturizers. So, when they combine those together, it almost is kind of syrupy.
Becca Lynn (06:38):
Yeah, that’s the feel that it has and the feel that it leaves on your skin after you use it.
Emily Doster, RN (06:42):
Yeah, it’s like a little bit of a thicker water. You can definitely use that to take your makeup off, but I would suggest using an additional cleanser afterward.
Becca Lynn (06:53):
OK. So I need to add an extra step because ... I mean, the bottle says you don’t need to wash your face afterward.
Emily Doster, RN (06:58):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (06:58):
But you’ve done a lot more when it comes to skin care, so I’m going to trust you versus the bottle of that water.
Emily Doster, RN (07:06):
And a lot of products can be multipurpose. Like you could take your makeup off with micellar water, wash your face, and then maybe use the micellar water as kind of a hydrating toner and leave that on. It is a great product to have at home. I use that one a lot. It’s great for teens, younger skin. It’s gentle, it’s effective. So, it is a good product.
Becca Lynn (07:30):
I do love it. I love the one that has the hyaluronic acid in it as well, because I’ve read the benefits of the hyaluronic acid.
Emily Doster, RN (07:36):
Yep.
Becca Lynn (07:36):
OK. So, now, we talked about cleansing and there are times when you forget to cleanse. What happens when you go to sleep with your makeup on? We’re all guilty of it. Every once in a while. I’m sure maybe you’re not as guilty as the rest of us.
Emily Doster, RN (07:51):
Your products can have bacteria in them, especially if they’re not brand new. And then your brushes, and skin naturally has a microbiome on it. So when you’re leaving your makeup on your skin to set and then there’s dead skin and oil and makeup, it’s just a perfect environment for bacteria to breed and create inflammation and clogged pores.
Becca Lynn (08:15):
This sounds so gross. Now I feel terrible every time I do it.
Emily Doster, RN (08:20):
And it can get. ... I do have girlfriends who occasionally do not wash their face and they do perfectly fine. If I even say I’m going to sleep in makeup, my skin will break out. So, it’s not the best habit to do, but some people’s skin just does not …
Becca Lynn (08:39):
Is resilient.
Emily Doster, RN (08:39):
Is very resilient. Yes.
Becca Lynn (08:41):
OK. Ours are obviously very sensitive.
Emily Doster, RN (08:43):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (08:43):
I remember hearing from a girlfriend that whenever you sleep in your makeup, that one night is almost seven years of aging on your face. And I’m sure that’s probably an exaggeration.
Emily Doster, RN (08:53):
I think so. I think just washing your face is exfoliating, right? Taking those products off, removing everything. We don’t realize how much we are exfoliating just from that process.
Becca Lynn (09:06):
Just from washing.
Emily Doster, RN (09:07):
Yep, just from washing. And I can tell with my clients, too, the ones who do wash their face at night regularly and the ones that don’t. Nighttime’s all about healing and repairing. So if you’re leaving all that on, your skin doesn’t have the best opportunity to do that.
Becca Lynn (09:23):
So some of the ways that we can actually break out of that habit, if we do tend to do it, how can we get into the habit of doing a new routine, a better skin-care routine?
Emily Doster, RN (09:32):
New habits are hard to form. They really are. You just have to find a time that’s going to work for you, even if it’s as soon as you come home at night from your day. Because sometimes we do, we make dinner and we’re putting our kids to bed, and then we just sit in our bed for five minutes and be like, OK, I just need some time on my phone and then you’re like, “I’m not getting up.”
Becca Lynn (09:52):
Right. Oh, you just described my evening, Emily, thank you. We’re right there together. Yes.
Emily Doster, RN (09:59):
Can someone just do this for me? So, just trying to find a time that you’re already up doing it before you settle in for the night, before you sit down for the night, that kind of thing.
Becca Lynn (10:12):
I like the idea of maybe setting a timer or a reminder, but especially when you sit down.
Emily Doster, RN (10:18):
Yeah. Sometimes when you sit down, you’re just not getting back up for the night.
Becca Lynn (10:22):
When you sit down, you’re definitely not getting back up for the night. At least that’s my motto. Or I holler, “Can someone please get me something?”
Emily Doster, RN (10:30):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (10:30):
Now speaking of sleep and not wanting to get back up, what about our pillowcases?
Emily Doster, RN (10:35):
I hear a lot of questions about using silk pillowcases, and silk is a very natural fiber. It’s very soft. It’s not absorbent either. That’s what makes it different between cotton. ... Cotton is a natural fiber as well. It’s breathable, but it is very absorbent, so sometimes it can absorb the oils and the moisture from your skin and your hair. So silk is a nice option. It’s a little bit more of an expensive option.
Becca Lynn (11:07):
What about satin? Because I hear a lot about satin when it comes to getting rid of frizzies in your hair or helping to prevent.
Emily Doster, RN (11:14):
From what I understand, satin is more of a blend of synthetics. So, it can be a little bit more not as absorbent, but also not as breathable as a silk. So, I think either one is a nice, soft option. It’s not going to be rough on the skin, it’s not really going to be absorbing the products that you put on your face. But again, I think it’s just kind of personal preference. I’m not sure how much that’s going to impact …
Becca Lynn (11:47):
Impact your skin.
Emily Doster, RN (11:48):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (11:48):
But I’m also thinking a silk pillowcase would probably be a nice gift for the future. Maybe my husband.
Emily Doster, RN (11:53):
Absolutely. I always think that’s a great, fun gift.
Becca Lynn (11:55):
That is a great, fun gift. My biggest concern, and I’ve tried numerous different products, and it’s dark circles. What is your recommendation the best way that we can conceal these or at least just minimize their appearance?
Emily Doster, RN (12:10):
Absolutely. So, I would say this is probably the No. 1 question I get from my clients all the time.
Becca Lynn (12:16):
I believe that.
Emily Doster, RN (12:17):
What I try to explain to people is that we see the skin, we see it from the outside, but that area is such a complex anatomical area. So that means that a lot of times what we’re seeing is happening on even a bone-structure level. So, we think about aging all the time, but what we don’t, and we think about skin and we think about makeup, but we really don’t often think about our bones. Right? I mean, not when we’re talking about beauty.
Becca Lynn (12:53):
Right. That’s not ... I’m sitting here. I’m very interested in what you’re saying about this.
Emily Doster, RN (12:58):
Yes. So, a lot of times, we think about skin makeup, how can we conceal it, but the under-eye area really is more about the bone structure and bone loss. And especially for women, that is a very hot topic. Osteoporosis, calcium, vitamin D, maintaining strong bones. And we think about it, not necessarily in our face, but that’s a huge part of the aging process.
(13:27):
So, topicals are great, but we have to remember that there’s a lot going on under the skin that a topical is not going to correct. So keeping the skin healthy, hydrated, protected, that’s really the best that we can do as far as skin care around under the eye. And then there are some makeup tips and tricks like color correcting that can cancel out those deep blues and those deep purples that we tend to see when we get really kind of hollow under the eye.
Becca Lynn (14:04):
Oh, yeah. I’ve seen a lot of the different corrections that people have used from green to orange, depending on your skin tone. And it’s always something that I’m very focused on is the dark circles. But I think I need some vitamin C in my life.
Emily Doster, RN (14:18):
Yeah, vitamin C, potent antioxidant. A lot of vitamin C eye creams have kind of like a yellow or orange tint to them. And when we’re thinking about correcting underneath the eye, it’s a lot of color theory. If you want to cancel out that blue, purple deep tone to it, you want to just look at the color wheel and it should be opposite of that. So, under our eyes, a lot of times blue, purple. The opposite of that would be like an orange or a red.
(14:47):
So deeper skin tones. A lot of times you’ll see them correct with a red or an orange, and lighter skin tones will correct oftentimes with a peach. So, doing a color corrector, even just the teeniest bit first, letting that dry down and then putting your concealer over top of it will be an instant brightening. Topicals aren’t going to correct bone loss, but it will brighten up that area very quickly.
Becca Lynn (15:13):
I think you and I need to make a shopping trip after this. We’ll finish recording and then I’m going to take you and we’re going to go shopping for makeup.
Emily Doster, RN (15:18):
Let’s do it.
Becca Lynn (15:19):
OK, that sounds great. Now, in addition to minimizing those circles, the dryness that a lot of us face, what can we do for those, that dry, flaky skin? And something that I’ve seen a lot on social media is skin sealing. What kind of hack is this?
Emily Doster, RN (15:38):
So skin sealing, I think now with social media too, beauty influencers are kind of coming up with different niche terms to kind of separate themselves from one another. And skin sealing reminds me of something that we sometimes call slugging the skin too, or we may have heard of slugging, and it’s just creating kind of an artificial barrier using a product that’s an occlusive. So, something like an Aquaphor ointment or something …
Becca Lynn (16:10):
Like a diaper rash treatment is basically.
Emily Doster, RN (16:12):
Exactly. Anything like that, like diaper rash, dry flaky skin, irritated skin, your barrier is not protecting you. Your barrier of your skin is compromised and that’s why your skin is dry, it’s flaky, it’s reacting. So, using a product that is an artificial barrier just helps to allow your skin to heal, but it also seals things in. So if you’re putting your hyaluronic acid on, you’re putting your vitamin C, and you want to make sure that it stays on there, you put your topicals on. And then, with this version, the occlusive they’re using is more of like a plastic wrap. So, they put that on under there really to just ensure that it’s absorbing into the skin, not evaporating off or wiping off or anything like that.
Becca Lynn (17:05):
Well, I’m very glad you explained that because there’s so many different trends on social media, and, like you mentioned, different beauty influencers using different names for things that we’ve done in the past. It’s just now, like you said, it has a different term to it.
Emily Doster, RN (17:19):
Exactly. Yeah.
Becca Lynn (17:21):
Also, drinking smoothies. ... Because we talked about the topical, there’s only so much we can do on the topical, but from the inside out, what would you recommend as a skin smoothie?
Emily Doster, RN (17:33):
So I tell my clients a lot of times that skin really is an inside-out story. Just like you want to put antioxidants on topical, a lot of times that’s what you want to do inside too. When I think about skin, it’s made up of protein, so you want to definitely have protein in there – antioxidants – that’s going to neutralize all those really reactive, damaging molecules, hydration, vitamins, minerals. All these things that we’re putting on topically, you want to introduce internally too. Our skin’s essential. It’s our largest organ. But a lot of times nutrients are going to go to other parts of our body first before they go to our skin. And that’s why …
Becca Lynn (18:18):
Right. There’s priorities.
Emily Doster, RN (18:19):
Absolutely. And that’s why topicals are important too, because skin can sometimes be the last too.
Becca Lynn (18:25):
It’s forgotten.
Emily Doster, RN (18:26):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (18:26):
Far too many times. …
OK. So we talked about bad habits of sleeping in our makeup and not washing our brushes, what about popping the occasional pimple?
Emily Doster, RN (18:37):
Popping the pimple is a hard, hard thing not to do.
Becca Lynn (18:40):
It really is. It really is.
Emily Doster, RN (18:42):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (18:43):
What do you suggest? What are your thoughts?
Emily Doster, RN (18:45):
My favorite thing right now is pimple patches. I think they’re phenomenal.
Becca Lynn (18:50):
I’ve just noticed them on. ... And you don’t even really notice them.
Emily Doster, RN (18:55):
People nowadays ... I see kids out and about and they have smiley-face pimple patches and stars and people are just owning it. Yeah, I’m breaking out. It’s a great way to just keep your fingers off of it and allow it to heal a little bit more before you do possibly extract it. You don’t want to pop a pimple when it’s just forming and you’re just seeing it. And that’s typically when people will. They just want to get their hands on it and get out. But you really want to allow it to go through a healing process. And then more when it’s toward the end of the inflammation cycle, you could possibly extract it, but usually it’s gone by then. So, if you can just wait, put a pimple patch on it, try not to touch it, try to leave it alone, it’s usually the best.
Becca Lynn (19:48):
I like that. ... I wish they had had those when we were in our adolescence, especially for stopping from touching it.
Emily Doster, RN (19:56):
Exactly. Just to keep your fingers off of it.
Becca Lynn (19:58):
That’s what I try to teach my daughter over and over is don’t touch. Don’t touch. Keep your hands clean. Same thing with my son. Keep your hands clean and don’t touch your face.
Emily Doster, RN (20:06):
Yep. It’s hard. It’s hard to do. But that can curb it a little bit.
Becca Lynn (20:11):
OK. So, we’re going to use a patch. We’re not going to pick. Are there other more effective ways to address the pimples, to address the blackheads? What do you think of pore strips?
Emily Doster, RN (20:21):
I think pore strips can be kind of aggressive. It’s very satisfying to watch them peel that off. But in reality, most people’s pores aren’t that large and congested. I really like more products that work by dissolving. So like a salicylic acid or a retinoid that’s going to exfoliate your skin, not that’s going to scrub it or rip it off. We tend to be really aggressive with our skin. We want to do a lot to it. But really, being gentle is the best thing.
Becca Lynn (20:57):
It’s good to remember. Very good to remember. I’ve also read, when you use the pore strips, you’re really just pulling out the sebaceous filaments, and most people have those.
Emily Doster, RN (21:06):
And you want them. It’s actually a sign that your barrier, your acid mantle, which is that lipid layer, is intact and it’s doing its job. So, as soon as you pull those out, your skin is going to be making new ones.
Becca Lynn (21:21):
Making more.
Emily Doster, RN (21:21):
Yup. So you can minimize them, but you do kind of want them there.
Becca Lynn (21:26):
So we want them. …
All right. So we keep our fingers and we quit poking and popping them.
Emily Doster, RN (21:32):
Step back from the mirror …
Becca Lynn (21:33):
Step back.
Emily Doster, RN (21:33):
Just a little bit.
Becca Lynn (21:35):
Now there’s something that I remember, and I’m sure you remember it as well, the toothpaste spot treatment.
Emily Doster, RN (21:41):
Mm-hmm.
Becca Lynn (21:42):
Oh, uh-oh, she gave me a look on that one. OK.
Emily Doster, RN (21:46):Well, I had heard this, but I really didn’t understand why people were doing it. I didn’t know if it [was] the mint was kind of drying, but what I learned was it was really the antibacterial property that people were looking for with the toothpaste. Acne can definitely be bacterial based. But I think the ingredient that people were using for toothpaste is no longer used anymore. Because it was used in antibacterial hand soaps and …
Becca Lynn (22:18):
All those products that we no longer use because we found that they’re not very good.
Emily Doster, RN (22:22):
Exactly. We don’t want to necessarily kill all the bacteria. Bacteria are great. The good ones are. So, I think it was more just trying to kill bacteria with an ingredient that was on there.
Becca Lynn (22:33):
I was always told it would dry it out. And it would dry it out and then you’d have to over-moisturize and then over-moisturizing would just lead to …
Emily Doster, RN (22:42):
More breakouts.
Becca Lynn (22:42):
… more breakouts. It was a ridiculous cycle. So we’re going to say no to the toothpaste.
Emily Doster, RN (22:46):
Yes. Yep, just for the teeth.
Becca Lynn (22:48):
I like that. Yes, please. Please, for the teeth. Plus, if you pick too much, it dries out too much, it leads to scarring. I still have some little marks on my skin. What are some of the great ways to prevent that scarring from happening?
Emily Doster, RN (23:03):
Yeah. Scarring is tricky, because sometimes even if you don’t pop a pimple, you might have a little bit of a mark to it. So, just being gentle, not overly aggressive with the skin. Really trying not to pop it when it’s forming, when it’s at that peak inflammation, angry point to it. Just kind of leaving it alone. Your body has these mechanisms in place to kind of heal and repair itself. So, the littlest that we mess with it, kind of the better. If it’s excessive, definitely talk to somebody. There might be needs to get different products to use.
Becca Lynn (23:41):
And quit scrolling through the TikTok feeds of the pimple popping.
Emily Doster, RN (23:45):
Yes. It’s good to educate yourself, but it can be ... Yes, Dr. Pimple Popper, oh my gosh, yes. That has become just a …
Becca Lynn (23:53):
It’s a thing. It shows up in my feed and …
Emily Doster, RN (23:56):
... sensation. Yeah.
Becca Lynn (23:57):
It is. Just to watch it as long. ... Well, maybe you just watch it instead of doing it to yourself.
Emily Doster, RN (24:01):
Absolutely. I’ve even seen little things on Amazon where you can get, it’s like silicone skin …
Becca Lynn (24:06):
I’ve seen it too. And you can pop it.
Emily Doster, RN (24:09):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (24:10):
Yes.
Emily Doster, RN (24:10):
Maybe that might be an option.
Becca Lynn (24:12):
Rather than doing it to your skin. Maybe that’s something that we can …
Emily Doster, RN (24:15):
Sure.
Becca Lynn (24:18):
Now, a lot of us do have these scars that we’ve already dealt with. Now, how can we handle those long-term scars? Is there a way to lessen them, make them look not as deep or as dark?
Emily Doster, RN (24:31):
So there’s a couple different elements with scars. Sometimes you can have textural scarring, sometimes you can have vascular tones to them, like reds and purples, that kind of thing. Sometimes that pigmentation will go away. If we get a pimple and then that pigmentation lingers, that will go away on its own. It just takes time. Antioxidants are a great way to even tone after things like that. If you’re looking to improve the actual texture of a scar, you will probably have to go for more of an in-office treatment. We can do things with chemical peels, we could do things with microneedling. There are different lasers that can treat scarring. The thing to remember about a scar is that once you have a scar, it’s always going to be there.
Becca Lynn (25:20):
Always going to be there.
Emily Doster, RN (25:22):
There are ways to minimize it with those kind of in-office treatments, different acids, again, microneedling, lasers to kind of remodel the collagen. But if it’s there from a pimple, if it’s there from a cut, a scrape, something like that, it is always going to be there.
Becca Lynn (25:40):
So you might as well just embrace it.
Emily Doster, RN (25:41):
Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (25:42):
All right. So, not just slather ourselves in cocoa butter?
Emily Doster, RN (25:47):
Cocoa butter is a great ingredient. There are lots of benefits from cocoa butter. It’s moisturizing, it’s hydrating, it has antioxidants, all those wonderful things that are going to help heal and repair the skin. And that’s really when you want to use cocoa butters more, as soon as you possibly can. Once everything has kind of healed itself, taking care of a scar as soon as you can is going to have the best result with it. You can repair and improve long scars that have been there for a long time. It might just take a little bit longer.
Becca Lynn (26:25):
So, when we first noticed the stretch marks, that’s when we should be slathering on the cocoa butter?
Emily Doster, RN (26:31):
Yeah. Stretch marks are technically scars. ... And a lot of times, it’s just your genetic makeup of your skin. Some people are more prone to them than others. So yeah, moisturizing your skin, giving it all those nutrients that it really needs to be strong and protect you.
Becca Lynn (26:51):
That’s great. So, you’re not telling me to go out and buy more cocoa butter or maybe I should?
Emily Doster, RN (26:57):
With winter coming, yeah, I mean, not a bad idea. Not a bad product to have at home.
Becca Lynn (27:01):
So now with each decade, our 20s, our 30s, our 40s, our 50s, what would you specifically hone in on for each of those decades so that we age gracefully?
Emily Doster, RN (27:14):
Absolutely. Sometimes it’s not about the decade that you are in your life. I try to see where people are at. Because the first thing that I want people to do with their skin is just protect it from the sun as much as you can. Don’t avoid the sun. Go to the beach, go to the pool, be outside. But you just want to be smart about not roasting your skin in the sun.
Becca Lynn (27:42):
Not baking our skin anymore.
Emily Doster, RN (27:43):
That, I would say, when my teens come in and my early 20s, the first thing that I’m going to give them and educate them on is being sun-safe. That’s the biggest thing that we’ve learned over the years is just protecting yourself from the sun, not burning, wear a hat, that kind of thing. The next thing that I would say is develop a good routine. It doesn’t have to be elaborate, sunscreen, antioxidants, some type of gentle exfoliation. Typically, you’ll hear about a retinoid, and I would say in your 30s, that would be a great time to incorporate a retinoid.
(28:21):
If you’re protecting yourself from the sun in your 20s and you’re doing a good routine in your 30s, then in your 40s, maybe you would start to dabble with a chemical peel or a laser treatment or possibly an injectable, a neurotoxin for wrinkles or some filler for lost volume. But if someone comes to me in their 50s and they’re like, “I don’t do anything,” I would still probably start with daily care over anything else. Because it can take you a really, really long way. And you want to establish that daily care before you just go in and try to target a line with some Botox or something. You really want to give them a good habit.
(29:05):
So, if someone comes in in their 20s and they have a good routine and they’re doing all this stuff, maybe we would start at a different point than if someone came in in their 50s and they’re like, “I do nothing at home.” So, as opposed …
Becca Lynn (29:18):
It’s really case by case and so many different variables that go into it.
Emily Doster, RN (29:22):
Yeah. And I like to educate people on ingredients and topicals and keeping it simple so it’s not overwhelming no matter …
Becca Lynn (29:29):
Because it can be overwhelming.
Emily Doster, RN (29:32):
Yes, absolutely. Very quickly. It can become overwhelming. So, just try to keep it as simple.
Becca Lynn (29:40):
Keep it simple.
Emily Doster, RN (29:40):
Yep.
Becca Lynn (29:41):
Keep it simple. So, you did mention the fillers and Botox, what would you expect or what would you prep one of your patients for their expectations from their first appointment?
Emily Doster, RN (29:51):
I get a lot of clients that think filler and Botox are the same thing.
Becca Lynn (29:56):
They’re different?
Emily Doster, RN (29:56):
They are different. They’re very different.
Becca Lynn (30:00):
Oh, I’m getting an education today. I love it.
Emily Doster, RN (30:02):
And that’s really my goal with skin care is really educating people so they can be educated and go out into the world and be like, no, no, no. They can flip their product around and be like, yes, this is what I’m looking for. And because there is such a variety of products out there, there’s always something new, the latest, greatest, you can look past a little bit of the marketing and see like, oh, this is good for me. This ingredient is what I need. So, when I have clients for filler and Botox, I do try to educate them on how it works, what it’s typically used for, their particular concerns, and then go from there.
Becca Lynn (30:47):
What is the difference between Botox and filler?
Emily Doster, RN (30:50):
So Botox is technically a neurotoxin, which scares people a lot.
Becca Lynn (30:56):
Well, you’re saying the word toxin.
Emily Doster, RN (30:58):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (30:58):
Yes, and then you’re going to inject it in my face.
Emily Doster, RN (31:01):
Yes. But essentially what it does is it stops the muscle from contracting. So, Botox has been used therapeutically, which means in a clinical setting for medical reasons, like migraines, different types of muscle spasms for years and years and years. And typically, in the cosmetic community, we find these things that have been used therapeutically and then we kind of steal them. So, when it’s used for migraines where they inject it in the face and the head and the neck, they saw that people weren’t forming wrinkles because they’re not contracting those muscles. So, certain wrinkles are from dynamic facial movement, muscle movements. So really, one of the only ways to correct them is to stop making those muscle movements. And we’ve all seen people who really like using it.
Becca Lynn (31:53):
Oh, yeah. It’s unfortunate when certain parts of their forehead ... and I know I have wrinkles on my forehead, but that’s …
Emily Doster, RN (32:00):
And lines are good, right?
Becca Lynn (32:02):
It tells the story. It’s the road map of my life.
Emily Doster, RN (32:05):
Absolutely. Yes. So Botox is all about muscle movement and filler is more about replacing loss volume. So, Botox, Dysport, any of those muscle contraction, we’re stopping muscle movement, where when you hear filler, you’re thinking adding volume.
Becca Lynn (32:22):
Plumping, adding volume, like you would to your hair.
Emily Doster, RN (32:24):
Exactly.
Becca Lynn (32:25):
So now, what’s the Barbie Botox that I’ve been hearing about?
Emily Doster, RN (32:28):
Yeah, Barbie’s having a year. I love it.
Becca Lynn (32:30):
She really is.
Emily Doster, RN (32:30):
She’s having a comeback.
Becca Lynn (32:32):
I played with my Barbie so much when I was younger.
Emily Doster, RN (32:35):
Barbie Botox is when they put it in the trap muscle, the trapezius muscle, again, to kind of elongate the neck. And when you’re not using a muscle, that muscle shrinks. So, when you put it in the trap, it elongates the neck and makes it look like you have this long neck, slender shoulders.
Becca Lynn (32:59):
Like a Barbie.
Emily Doster, RN (33:00):
Like a Barbie doll. And I’ve also seen it done in the arms as well to really give those thin Barbie arms.
Becca Lynn (33:10):
It’s not going to do anything for my bat wings though, right? I’m just being honest, Emily.
Emily Doster, RN (33:16):
I’m not 100% sure. I would say no, but …
Becca Lynn (33:19):
I’m leaning more toward no. But I had to ask. You can’t blame a girl for asking.
Emily Doster, RN (33:26):
Yeah. As long as you’re going to a safe provider, I would say do your thing. Is that my ...
Becca Lynn (33:35):
I could see it written all over your face. It’s not your thing.
Emily Doster, RN (33:37):
It’s not.
Becca Lynn (33:38):
It’s OK though.
Emily Doster, RN (33:39):
Yeah. Less is more for me.
Becca Lynn (33:46):
I tend to take that approach as well. Now, we’ve talked quite a bit about face care. Let’s move to body care and shaving and not shaving and shaving cream. And I’ve seen these new products, shaving oil or just using water. What do you think is the best approach to getting the best and smoothest shave and helping with razor burn, or at least trying to avoid razor burn?
Emily Doster, RN (34:11):
Absolutely. Sometimes I have my clients that come in and they have these real aggressive scrubs for their face and things like that. And I’m like, “Don’t throw it away. You can use it on your body.” Because your facial skin, especially around your eyes and your neck, very different than, say, your legs, the back of your thighs, the backs of your arms, that kind of thing. So, exfoliating, kind of bringing that hair up to the surface before you shave is a good idea. But also using something that’s going to give you a really nice slip that’s going to moisturize the skin, not going to dry you out. And then if you are prone to razor burn, shaving in that direction of the hair can help, but also just using a really nice sharp razor.
Becca Lynn (34:55):
You mean not my husband’s razor that’s been sitting on the sink for the past month or two?
Emily Doster, RN (34:59):
I mean, in a pinch, if you got to have a couple areas …
Becca Lynn (35:02):
You got to do what you got to do sometimes.
Emily Doster, RN (35:03):
Yes. We have to do what we do. But yeah, if you could put a new blade on your husband’s razor maybe or …
Becca Lynn (35:12):
I see where you’re going.
Emily Doster, RN (35:13):
... rinse it off maybe a little bit before.
Becca Lynn (35:16):
I see where you’re going. We’ve done it, but we probably shouldn’t be grabbing our husband’s razor.
Emily Doster, RN (35:20):
Not our first choice, but, yeah, sometimes we got to do what we got to do.
Becca Lynn (35:24):
I understand what you’re saying without saying it. Is there a thing about when you share a razor with someone?
Emily Doster, RN (35:32):
I think the biggest thing is that nicks and cuts. You can transfer blood-borne pathogen, that kind of thing.
Becca Lynn (35:39):
I didn’t even think about that.
Emily Doster, RN (35:40):
Not that it’s going to necessarily irritate your skin because you’re using it, someone else is using it, but it is bacteria, everybody. ... But if it’s your husband’s, you guys are sharing germs all the time. So, I think it’s more of just kind of like a hygienic thing.
Becca Lynn (35:57):
He doesn’t change his often enough anyway, so I just buy mine in bulk.
Emily Doster, RN (36:01):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (36:03):
And a dull shave. A lot of times he lets his get a lot duller than ours does. So, a dull shave and replacing your razor head is always extremely important. How often should you replace it? I typically just look at the little strip and go, “Yeah, that’s time to go.”
Emily Doster, RN (36:18):
And I think, yeah, if you’re going over the same spot multiple times and you’re just not getting the result you want, switch it up.
Becca Lynn (36:26):
Time to switch.
Emily Doster, RN (36:26):
Yeah. But if you’re only shaving once occasionally ...
Becca Lynn (36:30):
We’re approaching winter months, we’ll no longer be shaving as often.
Emily Doster, RN (36:34):
Exactly. As much. Your razors will last longer.
Becca Lynn (36:36):
Yes. Ladies, they’re more of an investment now looking ahead toward the spring.
Emily Doster, RN (36:40):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (36:41):
You had mentioned over-exfoliating. Is there such a thing as too much exfoliation?
Emily Doster, RN (36:47):
Absolutely, yeah, definitely. Especially nowadays with these strong products out there, for sure.
Becca Lynn (36:57):
How often would you recommend we exfoliate?
Emily Doster, RN (37:00):
I like when people cycle through different types of exfoliants. So, some products will exfoliate from the surface down, so they’re kind of resurfacing products. Those are nice to use. Retinoids stimulate cellular turnover, so those work a little bit deeper down. So, rotating through a topical alpha-hydroxy acid, then using a retinoid the next night, then maybe giving your skin a night or two off to just recover the barrier so you’re not just constantly exfoliating it off.
Becca Lynn (37:31):
It almost feels like constantly attacking it, giving it a chance to just rest.
Emily Doster, RN (37:36):
Absolutely. Yup.
Becca Lynn (37:37):
All right, so that’s important.
Emily Doster, RN (37:37):
Mm-hmm.
Becca Lynn (37:39):
But you also mentioned too, just washing your face is exfoliating.
Emily Doster, RN (37:42):
Yeah, absolutely. I mean, just physical friction can be exfoliating. So, sometimes we need that little extra bump of exfoliation, especially as we age. In our 20s, our skin’s turning over much quicker than it is in our 40s and 50s.
Becca Lynn (38:01):
Do you have to say it like that? Emily, do you really have to say it like that?
Emily Doster, RN (38:02):
Sorry. It’s true.
Becca Lynn (38:03):
Hurting my feelings, but I know it’s true. I know. I know it’s true. We’re just embracing it. We’re aging gracefully.
Emily Doster, RN (38:08):
Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (38:09):
Embracing it.
Emily Doster, RN (38:09):
Absolutely. And skin just needs a little help sometimes, just keeping the turnover. So, gentle, regular, a couple times a week is plenty.
Becca Lynn (38:20):
So the exfoliation products that we use on our face, we can use on our body. But it’s not the other way around, correct?
Emily Doster, RN (38:27):
Not typically, yeah. And facial products are a little bit more specialized sometimes than body products. But you can use, say, glycolic acid on your face and your body, but on your body it is going to be a little bit of a stronger percentage. So, yeah, you can definitely use the same ingredients on face and body, but the concentrations, the strengths of them are going to be what differs.
Becca Lynn (38:53):
We’ve taken in everything, shower, we’ve exfoliated, and now is the time to apply the self-tanner. It’s nice to have a nice healthy glow and self-tanning and sunless tanners are such a wonderful way to do that. ... What’s your approach, basically? What’s your approach on sunless tanners and things like that?
Emily Doster, RN (39:13):
I like sunless tanners. I tend to use them more just on my face than doing a whole body. There are some great tutorials out there on how to do full-body sunless tanners, but you do typically want to do them and apply them when you’re not going out into the sun. So it might be something that you apply at nighttime, let it develop overnight, and then your sunless tan is all ready for you in the morning. It’s not something you want to do in the morning before you go to the beach.
Becca Lynn (39:43):
Or before you’re going to work or anything like that.
Emily Doster, RN (39:45):
Exactly. And it’s really just to keep in mind that it’s not going to protect you from the sun. It’s not melanin, it’s not developing melanin in your skin. So, if you’re using a sunless tanner, you definitely still have to use sunscreen. It’s not going to offer you any protection.
Becca Lynn (40:02):
Is it a bad habit, good habit, or indifferent?
Emily Doster, RN (40:07):
When products are put out on the market, they have to follow certain guidelines. The ingredient in sunless tanning is generally considered safe. So, even women who are pregnant, it says that it’s OK to sunless tan anytime. Especially for women, we have to be careful about when we’re using these products. So I would say sunless tanner over a tanning bed, 100%.
Becca Lynn (40:38):
That makes sense. What about a spray tan?
Emily Doster, RN (40:42):
Spray tans, I mean, you just have to worry about a little bit of that inhaling of the. ... So if you’re pregnant or something like that, maybe don’t do a spray tan. Maybe do something more like a foam or a lotion that you can do at home.
Becca Lynn (40:57):
The products have truly revolutionized since when we were younger.
Emily Doster, RN (41:01):
Oh my goodness. Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (41:02):
Versus now. There’s mitts and there’s different types of …
Emily Doster, RN (41:06):
Brushes and undertones.
Becca Lynn (41:07):
And it doesn’t leave your hands orange anymore.
Emily Doster, RN (41:10):
Absolutely, absolutely.
Becca Lynn (41:10):
I’ll never forget that.
Emily Doster, RN (41:12):
Yeah, we were the first to experience the sunless tanner and …
Becca Lynn (41:16):
We were. Yeah, and the side effects …
Emily Doster, RN (41:18):
Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (41:19):
... of a bad application. Now, in just addition to some of the other trends that we’ve seen, castor oil. This one really caught me off guard because when I hear castor oil, I immediately think of my parents and my grandparents and people are now using it for skin and hair health. And what is it with putting it in your belly button? Can you please explain that to me?
Emily Doster, RN (41:41):
Castor oil has a couple of really unique properties to it. It’s thick, it’s sticky, so it acts kind of as an occlusive, as an artificial barrier. But as thick as it is, it does penetrate really deeply into the skin and it stimulates a lot of blood flow. So, that’s why people really like using it. It’s an occlusive, it’s moisturizing, but it also stimulates this blood flow. So when people are putting it in their belly buttons or they’re putting it on their abdomen, they can be trying to assist digestion or possibly alleviate cramps, that kind of thing.
Becca Lynn (42:17):
Really?
Emily Doster, RN (42:18):
Yup. A lot of healing and health comes from blood-flow, circulation right. And that’s why castor oil has been super popular.
Becca Lynn (42:28):
I never would’ve thought of that, but absolutely, the connections are there.
Emily Doster, RN (42:34):
Yup.
Becca Lynn (42:36):
Now, would you consider castor oil to also be part of one of those skin-sealing products that we had talked about previously?
Emily Doster, RN (42:43):
Yeah, I would consider it to be kind of a skin-sealing ingredient, like an occlusive. It is kind of a messy product to work with though. It is very sticky. It is very tacky.
Becca Lynn (42:54):
Is it like molasses?
Emily Doster, RN (42:59):
It’s not quite like molasses. It is just a very thick, sticky oil. So, yeah, I don’t know how I can see combing it on your lashes or that kind of thing.
Becca Lynn (43:11):
Really?
Emily Doster, RN (43:12):
Eyebrows, people do that too. Yeah.
Becca Lynn (43:13):
I’m fascinated.
Emily Doster, RN (43:15):
So, moisturizing, but putting it all over your body would have to be a little. ... There might be some messiness going on there.
Becca Lynn (43:25):
Understood. No further clarification is needed. So, the castor oil would help with your eyelash growth?
Emily Doster, RN (43:32):
Castor oil is very thick. It’s moisturizing. So, that is the idea when using it on your lashes, just kind of nourishing that hair.
Becca Lynn (43:42):
Nourishing is a big word when it comes to hair. And we’ve talked face, we’ve talked body. Let’s talk a little bit about that hair.
Emily Doster, RN (43:49):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (43:50):
I spend ridiculous amounts of money on my hair. We all do.
Emily Doster, RN (43:53):
Yes.
Becca Lynn (43:54):
Yes. And not just the hair, but also the products that go with it. Because if you’re going to spend the money on getting a wonderful haircut, color, whatever type of treatment you get, you should maintain it with the really good products. But I don’t wash it very often and I’m using a lot of dry shampoo. What are your thoughts on dry shampoo?
Emily Doster, RN (44:12):
I think dry shampoo is great. I think that, yeah, you can definitely extend washing your hair. It is a time commitment, money commitment, everything. The thing that I’ve heard about dry shampoos in the past are a lot of times the aerosol ones, sometimes they can release some chemicals that have been shown to be not the best for you, like benzene, but there’s lots of alternatives. There are cream, dry shampoos that are more like a paste that you can put in.
Becca Lynn (44:40):
I’ve seen a powder, too, that you can shake into it.
Emily Doster, RN (44:43):
Yep. Lots of powders, things like that. So, I think because, especially if you’re coloring your hair, your roots are very different than the tips of your hair. So dry shampoos extend that shampooing.
Becca Lynn (44:55):
Can it irritate your scalp?
Emily Doster, RN (44:57):
I’m sure it could. Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (44:59):
I’ve noticed a big change since I’ve gotten older and the hormone shift, my scalp gets drier and itchy and flakier and I’ve really had to incorporate some new scalp-care products into my routine that I’ve never had to use before. Is that typical?
Emily Doster, RN (45:15):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (45:15):
I’m not abnormal?
Emily Doster, RN (45:16):
No, not at all.
Becca Lynn (45:18):
Well, in other ways. In good ways. Thank you.
Emily Doster, RN (45:21):
The scalp is sensitive. It’s different than the rest of your face as well. So, if you notice that you are getting irritated from it, it might be the type, but it might be also how frequently you’re using it.
Becca Lynn (45:32):
So I don’t have to give up my dry shampoo. I just have to pay better attention.
Emily Doster, RN (45:37):
Yeah.
Becca Lynn (45:37):
OK. I can do that. So we’ve talked to all of it, the head, the toes, the skin, everything in between. I want to know what you really think are some of the top products that we should be investing in.
Emily Doster, RN (45:49):
So, my top three would be sunscreen, antioxidants, specifically a vitamin C, and a retinoid. If you can’t tolerate retinoids, definitely some kind of gentle exfoliant, like glycolic acid, lactic acid. Those are my top three.
Becca Lynn (46:08):
Those are your top three. Say them again because I completely forgot them already.
Emily Doster, RN (46:12):
Yeah. Sunscreen.
Becca Lynn (46:14):
Sunscreen, sunscreen. I use a tinted moisturizer that has a 45 SPF in it.
Emily Doster, RN (46:16):
Yep, that’s perfect.
Becca Lynn (46:17):
OK. So SPF and then?
Emily Doster, RN (46:20):
Antioxidants.
Becca Lynn (46:21):
Antioxidants.
Emily Doster, RN (46:22):
Yep. Specifically vitamin C.
Becca Lynn (46:24):
Got it.
Emily Doster, RN (46:24):
And some kind of gentle regular exfoliant, whether that’s a retinoid or an alpha-hydroxy acid, something that’s just going to aid your skin in turning over.
Becca Lynn (46:35):
Wonderful. And there’s so many different brands and lines that have those products, so you don’t necessarily need to break the bank to get some of those great benefits.
Emily Doster, RN (46:44):
Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (46:44):
OK. Now I think when I say that, drugstore, do you have any things that you would opt for the drugstore that would be an easier on the budget?
Emily Doster, RN (46:56):
Absolutely. So, I always suggest people the products that are not staying on your face, like your cleansers and things like that, your makeup removers, those products that you’re essentially kind of washing down the drain, do you have to invest a ton in them, no.
Becca Lynn (47:12):
Like a one-term use. I’m using it one time per day.
Emily Doster, RN (47:16):
Absolutely. Yep. And even with your other products, like your retinols and your vitamin Cs, some of those active ingredients, you might want to start with a more gentle form of a retinoid or use a drugstore retinoid over the summertime that’s not as strong. Or, this time, buy a drugstore vitamin C, next time, try something different. So, it’s really more about ingredient and knowing what you’re using. And then you can swap out a drugstore for a more expensive one from time to time.
Becca Lynn (47:49):
I think we’re going to talk a lot after this about some of the products that I’m using. It’s been wonderful. We have covered so many do’s and so many don’ts. Your best beauty habit?
Emily Doster, RN (47:59):
I think the best one is consistency, which is hard.
Becca Lynn (48:03):
Oh, that is extremely hard. That means staying with the routine every day and every night.
Emily Doster, RN (48:09):
Most days, yeah. Most of the time. Give yourself a little slack.
Becca Lynn (48:14):
Like a wiggle room.
Emily Doster, RN (48:15):
Yeah, exactly.
Becca Lynn (48:16):
Thank you.
Emily Doster, RN (48:16):
Yep. Absolutely.
Becca Lynn (48:18):
Thank you. We all need to hear that once in a while, we’re allowed to have a little slack.
Emily Doster, RN (48:20):
Exactly. Don’t beat yourself up if you fall asleep after a long night with makeup on. Just try not to make it every single night you’re doing it.
Becca Lynn (48:29):
I try to do once a week. If it happens once a week, I’m OK.
Emily Doster, RN (48:31):
Yeah. Mm-hmm. Right. Use your sunscreen most days.
Becca Lynn (48:38):
Consistency.
Emily Doster, RN (48:39):
Consistency.
Becca Lynn (48:39):
That’s one of the hardest things, Emily.
Emily Doster, RN (48:41):
Mm-hmm. I know.
Becca Lynn (48:41):
So difficult. This has been so wonderful and so educational and I really hope that everyone listening has had the chance to absorb some new things and learn some new things. And thank you so much for joining us today.
Emily Doster, RN (48:55):
Absolutely. Thanks for having me.
Becca Lynn (48:57):
We’re going to talk later too. To learn more about specialized skin care services and treatments that are available with Lehigh Valley Health Network, visit lvhn.org/facial-esthetics. Remember to subscribe or follow The Healthiest You wherever you get your podcasts, so that way you never miss an episode. And remember, be safe, be smart, and be the healthiest you.
